Krakow

After leaving the small dwarfs behind in Wroclaw, Tatiana and I took the Polski Bus to Krakow. Our new friend, Izabel, a lovely Polish lady living in Wroclaw, who we met on the bus, organised the tickets for us as we had no internet access. Tatiana’s phone has screen reading activation software, but her free internet connection no longer seems to work outside of Greece! Krakow is a fantastic city for both blind and sighted tourists alike. The city is reasonably easy to walk once someone has explained the directions of the main streets with one of my fingers over a map. The most important landmarks being the Royal Castle and Cathedral on Wawel (pronounced Vavel) Hill and Florianska Gate at opposite ends of the “Royal Way” The main square, once its layout is described, is also reasonably easy to navigate sighted or blind.

For blind travels like Tatiana and I there are twelve important attractions that have tactile models near the actual buildings. Once we found the models with help, we had much fun exploring and getting to understand the historical churches and other buildings I was attempting to photograph. Tatiana met a lovely Polish couple, Helena and Andrew online. They are blind and have lived in Krakow for several years. Andrew knows the layout of the city and where most of the models are located. Along with one of his friends, we spent a delightful afternoon exploring models and buildings in and around the Rynek, (Old Square or market place). Another day was spent attempting to use the hop on, hop off bus! Many locals don’t know where this bus goes from and it took several people before the particular bus stop in question was found. There seems to be two rival tour bus companies operating in Krakow. A big double decker bus and a small single one. They are both red. The single decker bus seems better for tourists: the commentary about each of the 13 locations is announced and described over speakers for all to hear. The double decker provides headphones but the commentary is often hard if not impossible to hear and the headphones are often of poor quality. Several buildings have audio guides, the one in the Krakow historical cathedral next to the castle is particularly informative. This is also where the Royal crypt is found. The castle has a good audio guide but there is not much information and you can’t stop the audio easily if you’re blind.

The food in Krakow is delicious both main courses and deserts. It’s not too expensive as long as you avoid the main square. I nearly killed Tatiana’s legs after dragging her up the former Town Hall Tower one hot afternoon. After descending to annoying patronising applause by several ignorant tourists/locals we met a lovely, kind Australian named Murray. He spent the afternoon exploring with us. We investigated the former Cloth Hall and wandered around the Underground Museum. An interesting place showcasing how early buildings were made and the town/city came into existence. Unfortunately, the audio guide worked to automatic signals and we were unable to use it!

We eventually said goodbye to our wonderful Polish friends and headed to the capital, Warsaw. An interesting city that needed more time to explore, the heat didn’t help. The old town with its castle square is at first confusing. The Royal and Vilanov castles are definitely worth exploring. And one of the best museums I’ve visited, the Warsaw Uprising Museum, is a must. The audio guide is fantastic and 47 rooms full of information gives full and graphic descriptions of the events of the uprising: why it occurred and the consequences and failed and disastrous results for the Poles. The Uprising occurred in 1944 and this year is the 70th anniversary of the event.

Tatiana finally and sadly flew back to Greece and I eventually took a night bus to Vilnius, capital of Lithuania. I arrived on the morning of 24th July and took a three hour interesting walking tour around some of the lesser known parts. It was free and interesting. Now chilling.

Travel update

Tatiana and I have been travelling for about two weeks now. First three days in Berlin again, where we revisited the Neptune in Alexanderplatz to feel up the naked female statues! We also trammed it to Voltz Park, people’s park, to explore the fairy tale fountain with all the lovely statues to children’s fairy stories: Snow White and her seven dwarfs, Hansel and Gretel, etc. Then the journey to Poland. We took the train to Poznan and stayed three days. A very interesting, busy and crowded old town square (Stari Ryneck) with old houses and huge town hall and many restaurants. Unfortunately the four interesting fountains were for some unknown reason turned off! We wandered around bumping to tables and tourists alike, tripped over chairs, and generally just wandered about. One kind local guy took us along with his two young daughters to the cathedral on the island in the Warta River, but a wedding was in session, so we left!

Next was Gdansk for four nights. However, the first hostel we visited had only Polish speaking staff in a residential neighbourhood far from the centre. Gdansk seems to possess people speaking little English. We were sent to another hostel near the Fishers market, cheap but not the most helpful staff! It was near the river and only a ten minute walk to the old town. An interesting area with Long Market on the river and Long Street with its many historical old buildings. Its a little confusing as the numbers in this street run in opposing order! The most important and impressive objects being Green Gate at the one end of the Royal Way and Golden Gate at the other end with Upper Gate at the top. There are many houses with different architectural styles, the Lion’s Castle being one of the best examples. A ferry ride of two hours up the river, and on the Baltic sea, took us to Hel. Fine hot day. A picturesque seaside tourist town with one main street full of cafés, expensive restaurants and tourist shops selling the usual post cards and alike.

We also briefly visited Gdynia: a larger town with museum ships. Alas, there wasn’t enough time to visit the ships. In the evening we attempted to visit Sopot, a resort town along the coast about 30 minutes from Gdynia by electric train. However, the train was extremely fast and the doors closed very quickly as one tried to board or disembark. I got stuck between the doors one one occasion when attempting to alight. This frightened Tatiana somewhat and we returned to Gdansk by other transport. The electric train seems a little dangerous for disabled people. Likewise the trams are difficult for disabled people as they have narrow doors, three or four steps and often don’t announce stops. If the do make announcements they’re often too quiet to hear. When you talk to Polish people or ask for directions, they will help, but don’t often approach you without being asked first.

Next was Wroclaw, the nicest city so far. A lovely old main square with several historic buildings and churches. Each city mentioned in this blog has tactile models of important churches and city halls for blind people to feel and Wroclaw is no exception. Tatiana and I explored with our hands the St Mary and St Elizabeth churches, the city hall and St John the Baptist Cathedral. Wroclaw is notable for its 300 dwarfs! Small people who live on the ground and visit and touch people at night! They are interesting and seem to do all tasks from firemen to travellers, professors to disabled dwarfs! Great fun for us, although not always easy to spot! A bear of metal was also discovered on our explorations.

We took an eco-tour in an electric buggy. This cool local guy named Chris drove us around Wroclaw at night visiting some of the most interesting sites. We gained a discount which was cool and he let us feel several interesting buildings, dwarfs and also took us to a few colourful and musical fountains – including the multimedia fountain at the Centenary Hall – a couple of kilometres from the centre.
Now we’re in Krakow, Poland’s home of history and culture, a tourist trap and once the medieval capital of Poland. We go on a boat ride along the Wistler river later and also visit the Royal Castle and Cathedral. Another blog to follow soon.

Bucharest

So, the trip has begun. I’m in Bucharest, capital of Romania. It’s my 92nd country and so far very interesting!

After taking an eighteen hour bus from Athens, Greece and passing through the whole of Greece, 10 hours, and all of Bulgaria, 6 hours, I finally arrived at 2 am in a cool and quiet Bucharest. A taxi driver dropped me at the Midland Youth Hostel, which is opposite the French embassy and only slightly short changed me! 

I’m now using the Leu, Romanian currency, which is 1 Euro equals 4.4 Lei. You can get a good meal for 18 Lei or even cheaper from the supermarket. Romanians like raw cabbage with meatballs and other delicacies inside, they also have creative soups including Tripe – cow’s stomach!

On my first day exploring, I walked up Calea Victoriei, one of the main old streets and headed to Cișmigiu Gardens, one of the city’s main and loveliest parks. The park contains birds, including swans, and also a man-made lake to delight locals and tourists alike. My interest was the sound of the birds and the search for the Rondum Roman – a series of marble sculptures of famous Romanian poets and writers, most from the mid-late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. After climbing down several groups of steps and getting nowhere, only finding bushes and people, I met a man who was local. His name was George. I told him what I was searching for and I was from England and travelling the world. He seemed impressed and endeavoured to help me in my quest. We walked several of the paths before descending several rough steps and he showed me the first statue. They were mostly set back in the trees and bushes. I climbed up on a marble step to touch the statue, but, alas, they were too high. Then I wiped out my camera and with George’s help proceeded to take a couple of snaps. I continued walking along the path stopping when I came to another bench, this seemed to indicate the location of the next statue. George departed and I continued my exploration. Several moments later I met George again, this time accompanied by his love girlfriend, Lidia. They were intrigued by my inclination to wander the world alone and take photos! I explained it’s about meeting people and learning different cultures, I take photos for fun!

Eventually, we all departed and I went in search of one of the park’s main fountains, finally locating it with help from another local. I then proceeded to make my way out of the park. As I neared the entrance I once again encountered George and Lidia. We chatted and eventually headed to University Square together (Piata Univeritiye). We were going to walk but decided to take a tram to save time. At Universitiye they took pictures of several statues for me, including one of an equestrian Michael the Great. I took one of the National Theatre and another of an expensive clock tower. Unfortunately these photos no longer exist, but more about that in a moment. They showed me to nice café/restaurant called Art Café, where I tried local soup and meatballs in raw cabbage – interesting, the soup was delicious. The café resembled a university style refectory and you take a tray and slide it along a counter, choosing which dishes you desire.

Lidia is an English teacher, teaching school children of various ages. I was invited to one of her classes the following day. I attended and talked with about eight girls aged 16. Although a little shy, they eventually opened up asked me questions about how a blind person travels and even about kissing!! After the class Lidia took me to a bus stop and I headed to Calea Victoriei and with help, to Piata Revolutiye. The square with its strangely shaped monument is in honour of the 1989 revolution against over 30 years of communist dictatorship and oppression. I eventually located the former Royal Palace, now home of the National Art Museum. The Athenaeum, which stages classical concerts and other events is also nearby. Two members of staff helped me get an audio guide and escorted me around the museum’s exhibits on medieval Romanian art. The audio guide is fascinating and gives some insight into several famous Romanian princes and kings, such as Steven the Great, 1847-1504. He built 47 churches for each of his victories in war. He ruled modern day northern Romania, Moldavia. After the audio tour, I had a tour around a collection of 14th century Italian art, which had been purchased by a king in the 19th century. Romania had no art collections of its own as eastern orthodox religion is against painting, sculpture etc. Only icons were allowed in the monasteries. The museum is beginning a multi-media guide in order to allow disabled visitors to enjoy the art. There was a booklet with different smells created from products found in some of the Italian works. I was able to feel copies of a relief set in three pieces then put together on top of each other to display the actual relief how it looks to the eye. I also was allowed to touch gold leaf, which felt like tracing paper, so thin was it. So I’ve had gold on my fingers.

The lady who had told me about the art took me across the street to Kretzulesc church and I briefly touched the old rough walls and had a walk inside. Then I managed to cross a main road without being run over and made my way to University Square. I asked a guy how to get to Rosetti Square, named after a nineteenth century revolutionary and he took me there for a photo. I then said I was heading to Piata Unirii (Union Square). He offered to take me, so I said fine. We walked and talked mainly about football. Suddenly I realised we were walking down a small quiet street with few people. I suddenly realised the danger and stopped, however, he grabbed my camera and ran away. I then tried to retrace my steps and find help. Unfortunately, I encountered a guy who was drunk. I asked for Union Square and pointed saying, Da, da, (Yes, yes, Union Square?) He dragged me across one main street and then down a side street. I tried to pull away and then he attacked me trying to break my cane. I began shouting and he ran off. Two ladies and a guy helped me find my hearing aid which had fallen on the ground and found me a taxi. It was about seven in the evening by then. 

The following day, Friday, 9 May. I took the metro after getting directions from hostel staff to Union Square and met two lovely young Romanian girls on the metro. They helped me to a shopping centre to purchase a new camera, plus sun glasses, which I lost during the fight. Next I attempted to visit Parliament Palace but discovered a marching band blocking my path. Therefore I sat in the sun and listened. I became stuck in the crowd and barriers until two lovely girls from Iasi, northern Romania helped me and we walked together to the clock tower and fountain, prominent features of Piata Unirii. They then took me to a café where I had a kebab. After escorting me to the metro they gave me their phone numbers and told me to call them if I visited Iasi, which I plan to do. My next plan was to take an evening guided walking tour, but when I went to the supposed meeting point, nobody showed. Tomorrow, I head to Timisoara, the country’s second city.

Lidia is wonderful, tonight she brought over home-made soup for me to try full of delicious veggies. She also gave me some chocolates and dried fruit for my trip They like to offer food. Very kind people in general and one or two ass holes doesn’t mean the whole city or country is bad. The Romanian are warm and kind people, willing to help if asked.

Latest blog!

So, it’s been a while since my last update, what have I been doing? From Kampala, Uganda’s small capital I stayed with David who showed me the sights, the market, the Anglican cathedral and even Gadaffi’s own mosque! I climbed into a minaret! From there we headed into rural Masaka and visited an orphanage containing 600 children! Can you imagine it! These are mostly street kids some have HIV and many have no family at all. Many of the boys sleep on metal frames for beds because they don’t have enough mattresses to go around. The 3-5 year old children wet their beds constantly, the smell is like bad cheese!

From there it was to Jinja for my Nile bungee, number 15! On my first day in Jinja, staying with a lovely local guy named Meddy, we visited the hospital where a young boy named Trevor was to have an eye operation to enable his right eye to see. The skin had covered his eye since birth. The operation, which was free, was apparently successful.

Now I’m in Kenya, home of the Masai Mara and Mount Kenya, Africa’s second highest mountain. I began my Kenya trip in Nakuru, visited Menengai volcanic crater before heading into lake country. I spent a night by Lake Baringo before visiting Thompson Falls near Nyahururu – it rained like nothing and I wasn’t able to camp. Two nights in Naivasha at Fisherman Camp enabled me to visit Hell’s Gate National Park, but again, I was hit by heavy rain. I’m now in Mombasa, Kenya’s second largest city. I’ve just come from Nairobi, the capital, where I had four entertaining days with Victor and his brothers and friends, Bebaly and Jose. We visited giraffes, crocodiles, the famous elephant orphanage and lastly Paradise Lost! So now I’m on the Indian Ocean and the heat and humidity is really hotting up!

I should finally mention, in Nairobi, I met a young blind guy named Moha. He lost sight in both eyes due to two different accidents. He’s not been able to see since the age of five, but is now attending university and plans to be a diplomat. What a cool experience to meet him and all the other kind Kenyans.

Now on Lake Tanganyika at Lake Shore Lodge

So I am now at Lake Tanganyika. I have crossed Tanzania in three weeks. It’s been interesting. It was cool in Moshi and Arusha. I stayed with a lovely Finnish couple in Morogoro. I visited a rock garden, which resembles a beach party place, very strange. Then I visited Iringa. I camped for the first time on this trip. At Rivervalley Camp, just 10 km outside Iringa. It’s a camp for people who wish to learn Swahili. Many Americans! I visited the town and tried to walk and climb Gangilonga, Talking Stone. The Hehe tribe believe it talks. Unfortunately, there are many locals who sit on the rock and attack unsuspecting tourists as they climb it. My guide even said it would be too dangerous. So we returned. I next visited Neema Craft Centre. This is a café/craft centre run by deaf people. You can also get a massage. Unfortunately, it was a holiday, so I couldn’t tour the craft shop. I did buy a couple of handmade crafts: they use recycled materials. For instance, they use coke and sprite bottle tops as part of ear rings!

After Iringa, I began hitting the buses for real. First six hours to Mbeya for one night at a Moravian Christian hostel. Then it was seven hours to Sumbawanga, a nice town with sandy dusty streets in the far southwest. One night there and it was an interesting, bumpy, rattle-shaking twisting rolling ride to Katangolo, where I was collected in a 4 by 4 to come to Lake Shore Lodge. The journey was supposed to take five hours, it took over eight! The bus broke down at least three times. I was by the window that wouldn’t open with a young African lady on my left shoulder and her baby on my left knee! At one point during the trip she breast feed her child! So now I am here on the lake. The lodge is delightful. Last night, 18th October, I had roasted meat and vegetables under a full moon with the lake lapping at my feet.

Next I head to Kigoma, in the north, and home of many of Tanzania’s best singers and musicians. Then I go to Burundi. Tony